Visiting Italy without Leaving OKC
Since COVID, leaving L.A. to return home to Oklahoma, and witnessing a turbulent world, traveling which requires boarding an airplane has zero appeal. So a trip to Italy for an Italian winemaker dinner, without leaving the state, was just the ticket!
Stella, the Midtown Oklahoma City restaurant offering modern Italian cuisine, hosted a terrific winemaker dinner last month, which I was treated to for my birthday – thank you, John!
See below the menu and pics from the most excellent evening.
Stella
Modern Italian Cuisine
Winemakers’ Dinner 11 March 2024
Hosts
Stella Owner Lori Burson and Ethica Wines
Chef
Ben Hutton
John Branch
Launching the evening
I
Bison Tartare, quail egg, tarragon remoulade, house-made focaccia
To my tastes, this was the star of the evening!
Paired with Ca’ dei Frati Lugana DOC, Lombardy
Wine description: When young, it is fresh, linear and furnished with great sophistication and elegance, with delicate hints of white balsamic flowers and traces of apricot and almond.
John noted that in the introduction to this white wine, our wine host noted it was similar to a sauvignon blanc. He agreed. However, he found it similar to Greco di Tufo. In talking with the host, she thought that was a good comparison (but the one we were tasting was not as “minerally” as Greco). The natural pairing for these two wines is seafood, especially crustaceans and oysters.
II
Roasted Cornish Game Hen, apple walnut puree, fig, fresh-churned compound butter.
Paired with 2020 Borgogno No Name Nebbiolo, Langhe
Wine description: Garnet red in color, it has hints of roses, violets and light spicy notes. It has an elegant tannin.
This was named “No Name” in protest of the bureaucracy connected to Italian agriculture and the wine world. It’s now bottled as an immediately drinkable Barolo. The DOCG originally denied designation. DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) is part of the Italian wine classification system. To John’s taste, No Name did not have the raisin-like taste of some Barolos, which he found a very pleasant surprise. Read more here.
III
Lamb Ragu, gnocchi, confit tomato, lacinato kale
Paired with 2021 Casa E.di Mirafiore Barbera d’Alba Superiore, Piemonte
Wine description: From organically grown grapes. Aromas of ripe cherries and blueberries, with orange peel and violets, and a licorice undertone. Medium body, dusty tannins. Flavorful and fresh with a spicy edge to the finish.
Optional 3 oz. pour, $15 – 2017 Casa E.di Mirafiore Barolo
Wine description: Aromas of violet, iris, baking spice and woodland berries form the enticing nose. It’s full-bodied and firmly structured, featuring crushed raspberry, ripe Morello cherry, licorice and tobacco, alongside lightly knit, close-grained tannins and surprising acidity for the scorching vintage.
Di Mirafiore was founded by the son of the first King of Italy, Emanuele Alberto, the Count of Mirafiore, in 1878. Thus it’s been called The King of Wines, the Wine of Kings. Certified organic in 2018, it’s located in the Fontanafredda estate in Piedmont.
As with No Name, John noted he was pleasantly surprised that this Barolo also did not have the raisin-like taste he’s noted with some Barolos.
IV
Spiced Prosecco Poached Pear, pistachio brittle, salted caramel, mascarpone, prosecco zabaione.
Paired with La Gioiosa Prosecco DOC
Wine description: Pale straw yellow and a fine, persistent perlage. The aroma is fruity and flowery with hints of ripe golden apple and small mountain flowers. The dry, fresh and flavorsome sensation on the palate is followed by a fruity and harmonious aftertaste.
Take-Away Wine
We took home two bottles of Ca’ dei Frati Lugana DOC and two bottles of Casa E.di Mirafiore Barbera d’Alba Superiore. They will pair well with pasta and red sauce!
We’ve enjoyed several excellent wine dinners through the years, including with the literary and inventive Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon and with Feudi di San Gregorio and la Fiorita for Brunellos. The latter two were wine dinners at il Grano which was located in West Los Angeles and operated by the engaging and energetic Sal Marino. Since closing il Grano, Sal has been working with his brother in the restaurant his family founded, Marino, on Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles. Highly recommend if you’re visiting L.A.!
John and I were happy to add another stellar wine & dinner experience with Stella, a taste of Italy in Oklahoma City!